The aviator jacket has one of the clearest origin stories in menswear: it was purpose-built for military pilots in the early 20th century, designed to keep them warm and unrestricted in open cockpits at altitude. That functional DNA is still visible in every authentic aviator jacket today — and it's exactly what makes it one of the most distinctive leather jacket silhouettes. Here's everything you need to know before buying one.
What Makes an Aviator Jacket an Aviator Jacket?
The defining features that separate an aviator jacket from a bomber or a biker are consistent across nearly every version: a large, plush collar — typically shearling or fur-lined — that can be worn flat or folded up to protect the neck and jaw. A front zip closure, usually with a storm flap for wind protection. A slightly longer body than a biker jacket, typically hitting mid-hip. And a lining that insulates — either full shearling, faux shearling, or a heavy quilted lining. The collar is the non-negotiable. Without a plush, substantial collar, it's not really an aviator jacket.
Shearling vs Synthetic Collar: What's the Difference?
The collar and lining are where the real quality difference shows up. Genuine shearling — real sheepskin with the wool still attached — insulates better than any synthetic alternative of the same weight. It breathes, which means it regulates temperature rather than trapping heat the way synthetic linings do. It also looks and feels unmistakably premium: dense, textural, with a weight and warmth that synthetic fur simply doesn't replicate. Synthetic shearling collars look similar at a glance but don't breathe, mat down faster with use, and can feel hot rather than warm. If warmth and longevity matter, genuine shearling is worth the price difference. Browse our shearling jackets to see the range.
Leather Body: Which Hide Works Best?
Most aviator jacket bodies are made from cowhide or buffalo leather rather than softer sheep nappa. The reason is structural: the body of an aviator needs enough rigidity to hold its shape through a heavy collar and lining. Cowhide provides that structure while remaining flexible enough for comfortable movement. Over time, a well-made cowhide aviator develops a deep patina — the kind of natural wear pattern that makes a jacket look more interesting with age, not worse.
What to Look For When Buying
Collar quality: The collar should feel dense and full, not thin or flat. A good shearling collar has weight to it — you'll notice it when you lift the jacket. Stitching: Check seams around the collar attachment point, armholes, and zip — these are the stress points. Tight, even stitching with no gaps is what you're looking for. Lining: Unzip and check whether the lining runs all the way through or is only partial. Full linings last longer and insulate better. Hardware: Zippers should run smoothly with no catching. Snaps and buttons should close firmly.
How Should an Aviator Jacket Fit?
Because the collar and lining add bulk, first-time buyers often size up unnecessarily and end up with a jacket that looks oversized. Size based on your chest measurement and shoulder width — the collar and lining fill out the upper body without needing extra room in the size. The jacket should sit close through the shoulders with enough room for a base layer underneath. Check our men's leather jackets size chart for specific measurements by style.
Best Occasions for an Aviator Jacket
The aviator is one of the few leather jackets that genuinely works for cold weather rather than just cool weather. Paired with a heavy knit, dark jeans, and boots, it handles temperatures that would make a lighter biker or bomber jacket insufficient. It also works as a smart-casual outer layer — over a clean sweater and trousers for a dinner or casual event. The shearling collar reads as refined rather than aggressive, which broadens the range of occasions it fits.
Final Thoughts
An aviator jacket is an investment piece — buy a well-made one in genuine leather with a real shearling collar and it will still look right a decade from now. Focus on collar quality, fit through the shoulders, and stitching at the stress points. Browse our full range of men's leather jackets and women's leather jackets to find the aviator style that suits you.