Brown leather, pale fur collar. It is probably the most instantly recognisable jacket silhouette in existence, and unlike most iconic garments, every element of it exists for a functional reason.
Why Brown and Fur Specifically
The combination comes from WWII bomber crews - brown horsehide because that was the standard-issue hide, sheepskin collars because crews at altitude faced temperatures around -40°C. The warm brown against pale wool happens to be one of the most flattering colour pairings in menswear, which is why it outlived its military purpose by eighty years.
What the Collar Actually Does
Flipped up, a deep fur collar creates a pocket of still air around your neck and jaw. That trapped air, not the fur itself, is the insulation - the same principle as a parka's fur ruff. It is why an aviator feels dramatically warmer than its weight suggests, and why a shallow decorative collar is nearly useless.
Choosing Your Fur Tone
- Arctic gold / cream - maximum contrast against brown leather, the classic heritage look. See our Shearling Bomber in Brown/Arctic Gold.
- Beige - softer contrast, slightly more modern. Our Brown/Beige Shearling.
- Ginger - warmest and most tonal, closest to a single-colour jacket. The Shearling Shawl in Brown/Ginger.
Real Shearling vs Faux Fur
Real shearling is one piece - hide outside, wool attached inside. It regulates moisture as well as heat, stays lofted for decades, and gets better with age. Faux fur is warmer than nothing and much cheaper, but it mats within a season or two and does not breathe. Test by parting the pile: real shearling shows hide underneath, not fabric backing. More in our shearling guide.
How to Wear It Without the Costume Problem
- One heritage piece per outfit. Aviator jacket plus aviator sunglasses plus flight boots is a costume. Aviator jacket plus a plain knit and dark jeans is style.
- Keep the bottom half slim. The collar adds volume up top; straight or tapered trousers balance it.
- Collar up in wind, down indoors. Both are correct - the jacket is designed for the switch.
Which Climate It Suits
Below about 5°C it comes into its own; above 10°C it is too much jacket. For genuinely severe cold, consider a fur hood instead of a collar - see the hood guide and the Canada buyer's guide.
Browse the full Aviator collection and Shearling & Fur - free shipping, 30-day returns.